Arcade monitor needed big buck hunter

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Arcade monitor needed big buck hunter

Post by Darrellb on Sun Jun 26, 2016 12:51 pm

Im new here i own atlantis pinball and firepower pinball i also have big buck hunter sportsman paradise im needing a new monitor or picture tube hopeing someone in winnipeg can help me out with my big buck hunter thanks db

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Re: Arcade monitor needed big buck hunter

Post by kevinb2001 on Tue Jun 28, 2016 9:22 am

I'm not positive of the forum rules but I'm guessing this should go under Arcade Chat. If so maybe a mod can move it?

Just to get the warning out of the way: I'm not sure what your experience is with arcade monitors but don't start touching things or actually working on the monitor without discharging it. (lots of videos on youtube)

What's the problem with the monitor you have in your bbh now? Depending on the model of monitor and the problem, it's usually going to be much cheaper/easier/faster to just fix the one that's in there. Maybe take some pictures of what the monitor is doing now and post it here. Also look for the model of the chassis (circuit board of the monitor, the model of the tube isn't relevant) something like Wells Gardner, WG, Neotec etc. A lot of the time you can repair your existing monitor just by replacing all of the capacitors on the chassis which you can do yourself if you're half decent with a soldering iron but it's hard to even venture a guess without knowing more information.
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Re: Arcade monitor needed big buck hunter

Post by Darrellb on Tue Jun 28, 2016 9:50 am

Thanks for the replie i had someone check the chassie all caps are good it says wells garderner 7500 chassie on it its a medium resolution monitor the colors are washed out looking i had someone come and rejuvenate the tube but it still looks the same each color works independently red blue green are all bright but together there giving a washed out look so im not sure what else to do

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Re: Arcade monitor needed big buck hunter

Post by kevinb2001 on Tue Jun 28, 2016 10:45 am

How did you check the caps? Did you remove them and check with an esr meter? As far as I know there's no other way to check them but to go to that much work I would just replace them because cap kits are dirt cheap and I don't think a lot of the cheap ebay meters are always 100% accurate.

This is just my opinion and others might disagree but if the colors work independently, I would replace all caps including filter cap, replace the flyback and hot, reflow solder on the chassis and neckboard and then try to adjust it and see if it looks better. Worst case scenario you'd have spent like $50-$60 US on parts with shipping and if you somehow end up replacing the whole monitor with a different one you can probably sell the chassis alone without the tube for what you'd have spent on parts. I've had dim or washed out pictures solved by both caps & flybacks before and I usually replace all of those things before doing a rejuv.

I would also recommend posting pictures of the chassis, pictures of what the monitor is doing with a thorough explanation of what you've already done on the KLOV/arcade museum forum under monitor repair, there are a lot of people with a wealth of knowledge on monitor repair and are usually more than willing to help as long as you post enough details.
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Re: Arcade monitor needed big buck hunter

Post by kevinb2001 on Tue Jun 28, 2016 2:18 pm

I did a quick read up on common K7500 problems and you may also want to pull R811 and check that it's the correct value. Looks like it often causes washed out picture, usually black and white with no color but if it's not as badly out of spec I could see it causing something like what you describe. Check the color code on the resistor and see if it's reading what it's supposed to.
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Re: Arcade monitor needed big buck hunter

Post by Darrellb on Tue Jun 28, 2016 5:21 pm

Well first off i wanna say thanks for the replies much appreciated..i am not to knowledgeable about the electronics or repairing. or soldering anything on my monitor i had two local guys in winnipeg come but they aint sure as for replacing the caps i believe my guy just did a visual inspection on them im not sure if he took an ohm meter to them or not hes a pinball repair guy not a monitor specialists i have a video but cant upload it here so if so i really need a repair person in winnipeg as im limmited as what i can do for repairs maybe i can show u my video thanks again

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Re: Arcade monitor needed big buck hunter

Post by kevinb2001 on Wed Jun 29, 2016 10:53 am

Post the video to youtube and then just post a link to it here.

Also if you can post some pictures of the chassis itself here that would help, if you still see old 85 C Wincap or similar garbage brand capacitors on there, there's a good chance it has never been recapped. I've never worked on a k7500 but I've done older k7000 standard res and newer d9200 monitors and if these are anything like the wells tri-res monitors the caps they used were garbage and it's a miracle if they lasted for 10 years on location somewhere. Replace them with high quality caps and they'll probably last you 25 years in a home use environment.

The only way to tell if a capacitor is bad by looking at it, is if it's bulged or has leaked out the bottom or sides, but they don't always do that when they fail, and it doesn't have to fail completely to cause a problem, if it goes out of spec, ie a 200uf cap that's just old and dried out and has changed to a value of 120uf is enough to cause your monitor to do weird shit. You also cannot test them with a multi meter, or while they're still soldered in circuit, you'd have to remove it and then test it with an esr meter or something similar, which is why most people will just replace all the capacitors, and maybe test them after removing them out of curiosity. Personally I prefer the shotgun approach of replace everything I can if I'm pulling the chassis out and replacing parts it's a lot easier to do it once and not have to touch it again for a long time.

There's lots of places to order parts from, lately I've been ordering from www.iankellogg.com because his cap kits are taped and labelled which makes things go so much faster. If I were you I would order all the parts listed for that monitor (the cap kit, the flyback, the transistors and the width coil):

https://iankellogg.com/parts-by-monitor/wells-gardner/wells-gardner-k7400-k7500.html

The only thing not listed there is the filter cap and that R811, but you can get both of those from digikey/mouser. I would check the values of the parts on the chassis and then order from digikey/mouser.

I don't know who does monitor repairs locally or what they charge because I've always done my own. Either way I would order the parts yourself and then just find someone who's willing to actually replace them on the chassis. I don't do work for other people normally, just my own stuff and helped out friends a handful of times. If you can't find anyone willing to do it send me a pm and let me know what area you're in and maybe I can help you out. I wouldn't replace the monitor if I was you without trying to do basic repairs first though, and to me it doesn't sound like it is necessarily the tube that's the problem. Also even though this is a medium res and I only spent 5 minutes looking into it, it sounds like you might be able to find a regular TV tube that's compatible with the yoke/chassis you have if the tube is the problem and rebuilding the chassis is still a good idea so that you don't have problems in the future.

First things first though post some pictures and if possible a link to your video.


Last edited by kevinb2001 on Wed Jun 29, 2016 10:57 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : spelling)
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Re: Arcade monitor needed big buck hunter

Post by Darrellb on Wed Jun 29, 2016 7:16 pm

Well its darrell belcourt on you tube it wont let me post a link

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Re: Arcade monitor needed big buck hunter

Post by kevinb2001 on Wed Jun 29, 2016 10:02 pm

I found your video, I would bet money R811 is bad, that's not just washed out, it's pretty much black and white. Also it's pretty hard to tell in your video, but I heard you say the caps look fine. You can't tell that just by looking at them. If the chassis is coming out to test/replace R811, I would replace the caps flyback and hot at the same time, no point in fixing it just to have it break down again in 6 months, especially if you're not doing your own repairs. At a minimum I would recommend to replace the caps and R811 though.
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