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STTNG has started resetting when double taping the flippers again!

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STTNG has started resetting when double taping the flippers again! Empty STTNG has started resetting when double taping the flippers again!

Post by paulohotline Wed May 21, 2014 9:42 am

Damn, my STTNG has started resetting when double taping the flippers again after almost a year of zero resets after I put in a new Rottendog board. I sold my old board so I cannot test if its the new board, but I doubt it since all the test LEDS are coming up solid.

I did notice top right flipper was sticking last week so I put in a extra spring to help it along, so I believe a rebuild of this flipper should fix the problem. It's been a year or so since I tackled anything to do with Pin repair. This should be fun!

Found this great FAQ in Newgroups with a pretty good checklist...

Hey Faz, your voltage is fine in my opinion.  I would say a measurable drop
in voltage from the driver board to the CPU in about the quarter to half
volt range would be something to be concerned about.  You're seeing about a
0.03V drop, not at all significant in my opinion.
That doesn't mean there's not a current issue though with the 5V, and that's
where the J101, J114, J210 and Z-connectors come into play.  If the pins on
these connectors are oxidized heavily as they usually are after many years
of use, the amount of current that passes through them is diminished.  This
can sometimes be measured by a significant enough voltage drop, but I think
most times when a reset issue occurs, the voltage drop isn't going to be
enough to take notice of.  By reseating the connectors a couple of times,
the oxidation that was previously interrupting the current flow is displaced
and resets stop.  That's why it's recommended to do reseating of these
connectors one at a time, so you can tell exactly which of these connectors
is the major cause of the problem.

You don't mention if the resets stopped after you reseated these connectors
or not.  If they did, then yes, redoing those connectors is a good idea.

There are so many different things that can cause resets in WPC games.
That's why the standard "replace BR2" answer that most people seem to love
is so frustrating to see.  That's really the last thing do in most cases and
simply the act of removing the driver board is enough to clean the
connectors temporarily to get the game to stop resetting, so the immediate
thought is, "well see, BR2 was bad".  The solder joints at BR2 and the
surrounding circuitry are much more likely to be a problem that the actual
bridge rectifier itself.

Going through the pinrepair.com procedure for WPC resets is the best advice
I can give to anyone with a problem.  Clay has it outlined and listed pretty
much in order of what to check first and what to check last.  Just follow
the list and I'd say 98% of the time, by the time you get to the section
that talks about BR2 replacement, the reset issue is no more.

This is a list of things that I check for on a WPC reset issue from first to
last...


  • -Major appliances coming on at reset.
    -A/C cord into machine-could be loose.
    -A/C power in.
    -Mounting screws for boards tight and secure.
    -Voltage at C31 on CPU.-this I test with a DMM w/Min/Max setting.  I run the
    game through its paces with the meter in this mode.  Any dip in voltage will
    cause an alert and capture and I can see at exactly what voltage the reset
    occurred.  I also test for AC at the same time, since if BR2 were allowing
    AC to pass, it would show here.
    -Flipper coil diodes.
    -Power connector into CPU, J210.
    -Z-connector.
    -Power connector out of driver board, J114.
    -Power connector into driver board, J101.
    -Molex connector at transformer.
    -Ribbon cables.
    -ASIC reseat.
    -ROM reseat.
    -PIC reseat.
    -CPU reseat.
    -Thermistor in power box.
    -Solder joints in 5V section of driver board.
    -C4 on driver board.
    -C5 on driver board.
    -LM323K on driver board.
    -BR2 on driver board.
    -Other bridge rectifiers on driver board.
    -Other large 15KuF caps on driver board.


So as you can see, quite a list.  There are other things that can cause
reset issues, but they're rare enough to not really be worth mentioning.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
314-766-4587
paulohotline
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Posts : 921
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Post by paulohotline Thu Jul 24, 2014 1:22 pm

Prock found the "WPC MPU Power Fix" that he passed on to me that came out to $55.19 CAN including expedited shipping from Vancouver (5 Days) and solved the problem..  
http://www.kahr.us/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gx-VYaYwAE&feature=youtu.be

Ordered, installed in 2 minutes, works like a champ, no more resets (knock on wood)


Last edited by paulohotline on Thu Jul 24, 2014 3:01 pm; edited 4 times in total
paulohotline
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Post by Freezie Thu Jul 24, 2014 1:30 pm

its definitely a solid idea , i always planned to get one if i ever came up against a stubborn reset.
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Post by prock Thu Jul 24, 2014 1:43 pm

Awesome news!! For those that are interested here is a lengthy interview with the creator of the daughterboard which explains the technical details.... http://creditdotpinball.com/2014/04/26/tech-wpc-resets-and-the-wpc-mpu-daughterboard/
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Post by Malibu-ss Thu Jul 24, 2014 3:08 pm

I bought 3 of them already..........my TZ and Jackpot would reset when all the games were on,but not when I was just playing myself.
These things worked like a charm
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