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Devils dare restoration project

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Post by spaceship Thu Nov 05, 2015 10:54 am

Ive got a thread going on pinside about restoring the playfield art on my devils dare. Wanting to share with the local group but dont want to duplicate post, so heres the link if anyone is interested:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/devils-dare-pf-touchup

spaceship

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Post by prock Thu Nov 05, 2015 1:14 pm

wow.. going to be an interesting project to follow. Good luck with the playfield touchup!
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Post by Malibu-ss Sat Nov 07, 2015 10:59 pm

looks cool,a lot of work
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Post by spaceship Sun Nov 08, 2015 10:56 am

alot of work is right! but im learning all kinds of exciting new things, like color matching and using an airbrush! I gotta say, I'm really proud of the results I'm getting, so far has exceeded my expectations going into this.

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Post by Yellowghost Sun Nov 08, 2015 11:04 am

I am very interested in this. What type and brand of "acrylic" are you using? Many water based artists acrylics are soft and will just scrape off easily. Regardless of whatever, it will need to be clearcoated. I thought of using a oil-based "enamel",for my future project. Two things I would try : the little square testors paint. They come in wide variety of colors. OR...what I have been using lately..Nail polish. Its almost industructible. Those thin cracks might be a issue. I would call that "cracking" . On old houses you see that. Its caused by the paint getting brittle and can no longer shrink and expand with wood. I will guess that a pinball machine stored outdoors or high humidity would cause this too. For clearcoat..no need to ship it anywhere. Just go down to Maco and see what they say. Another thing to try maybe is tests these things on a unseen place and just spraybomb clearcoat over it. Maybe try a urethane meant for floors. I bookmarked that website so Keep it posted.

Jeff

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Post by spaceship Sun Nov 08, 2015 2:02 pm

I am using the cheap craft acrylic paints from michaels. Since I am going to clearcoat a matte paint is ideal, as all the shine comes from the clearcoat finnish and the clear may have trouble bonding to a gloss paint. Its actually ideal to sand the whole pf with 600 or 800 grit before clearing. I plan to apply the clearcoat myself with 2 part auto clear (the highly recommended option). Since I'm putting so much effort into touching up the paint I might as well not skimp on the final step. Picked up a HVLP spray gun at princess auto for $12 on sale!

Also got the $16 airbrush they sell at princess auto and am masking off and spraying some areas that are a single colour. I found that thinning the paint with 99% isopropyl for the airbrush works well for me and dries quickly. Still doing some brush touchups in spots that have detail or arent as visable. Spending as much time as it takes to mix the colour absolutely perfect is well worth the effort.

Ive heard that oil based model paints are a no no. there are some gloss acrylics that are durable, I used some of the Americana brand from michaels to touch up a few small spots on my Road Kings because I wasnt going to clearcoat it. They worked well and my touch up has survived so far (about a year)

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Post by spaceship Tue Nov 17, 2015 3:46 pm

added a few new progress pics to the thread

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