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Fried chip?

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Post by Yellowghost Thu Jan 28, 2016 5:23 pm

Thanks!! Now I'm cooking with gas.

Yellowghost

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Post by Yellowghost Sat Jan 30, 2016 7:34 pm

Reisnstalled the board with the 7amp fuse and it powered up without blowing the fuse. Began reconnecting connectors one at a time and everything was going great until I got to the last two connectors 107 and 106. Powered up and the fuse blew. Not sure what to think now. But I assume this rules out a problem with the board?  Going to work up the courage to test those voltages while I got it powered up.


Last edited by Yellowghost on Sat Jan 30, 2016 8:11 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Post by Yellowghost Sat Jan 30, 2016 7:44 pm

annnd voltages are allgood cept for the one thats blown

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Post by prock Sun Jan 31, 2016 11:12 am

I'm not sure if that eliminates a board issue.  If a 5 amp fuse blows when J106 and J107 aren't plugged in you probably still have an issue somewhere.. seems pretty odd.

From what I read, and correct me if I'm wrong, J106 goes to the triac driver board (which has a fuse on it.. did you check it?) and J107 goes to all the solenoids and the high current driver assembly which is mounted under the playfield.

My next question would be, does the fuse blow with just J106 installed (J107 has been removed)?  If it's just J107 causing the fuse to blow what you could do is try to unplug the high current driver board under the playfield (see page 2-39 of your manual for the exact location). Unplug both connections to the board to be sure.  This would eliminate a short in any of your solenoids and point to the high current board which should be an easy fix.
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Post by Yellowghost Sun Jan 31, 2016 6:39 pm

Bascally , my nxt plan is to cut all the wiring to all the solenoids and reconnect them one at a time until I find out which solenoid is shorting out. Beyond that...wait for the dollar to goback up to par or close too and buy brand new boards.

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Post by prock Sun Jan 31, 2016 9:51 pm

I don't think you'll have to do that... if they are disconnected from the driver board you should be able to tell if they are shorted. Look at page 3-7 in the manual... if you disconnect J127, J130, and J107 that should accomplish the same thing without all that soldering.
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Post by Yellowghost Sun Jan 31, 2016 10:35 pm

Youlost me Prock. Haha. I understand what you mean but connecting J107 starts to supply power to all the solenoids except flippers. Its all or nothing so I don't how I can isolate the problem to a specific solenoid by leaving J107 loose. I am thinking the first step is to get the machine to a point where I can power up the board with all connectors on without burning fuse..THEN reconnecting solenoids one at a time. Example..I start reconnecting solenoids and I reconnect say....jet bumper 2 solenoid and the fuse blows..then I know that theres a grounded wire in that area. That probably doesn't make sense.
but I just noticed that the violet/green wire goes to the ball accelerator board so that is a new potential source of the problem.

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Post by Yellowghost Tue Feb 09, 2016 8:46 pm

So I got my shipment of 7 amp fuses today. Put one in, booted up..with j107 still removed. And started a game ....sort of..Flippers work great. And the plunger coil, even though it shouldn't be working . Can't figure that out. So shirley that must rule out the flipper circuitboard and the "high current board" that powers the plunger coil. My next plan of attack is too disconnect the "ball accelerator board" and the wire harness to the magnet and supercharger ramp coil for good measure. And then plug j107 in and see what happens.

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Post by prock Tue Feb 09, 2016 9:11 pm

Sounds like a good plan of attack! Good to hear you are making progress.
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Post by Yellowghost Thu Feb 11, 2016 4:50 pm

Thanks Prock. I unplugged those two things and replugged j107 and it dont blow and game plays and solenoids fire. Only thing that doesnt work now is obviously the supercharger track and ball diverter thing to the supercharger. So narrowed down to a few things but it must be the "ball accerarator board" that I fucked up.It comes out tonight and try to test it as much as I can. I bought 20 freaking fuses and I dint get a chance to burn one so far. Dissapointing.

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Post by prock Fri Feb 12, 2016 9:04 am

Well.. it might not be the accelerator board. There are 3 coils/magnets that it connects to isn't there? I've never seen the assembly so I don't really know. Have you checked them for a dead short in the magnets? I'm not sure how easy they are to get at. You can disconnect J6 from the accelerator board and on the wire side check for a short between pins 1&5, 2&6, 3&7.
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Post by Yellowghost Fri Feb 12, 2016 5:16 pm

Stupid question. Is there a way to test this? My multimeter only has voltage, resistance and diode settings

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Post by Yellowghost Fri Feb 12, 2016 6:25 pm

For what its worth I checked the resistance and they are sll the same. But now I get error messages telling me to check all the supercharger optos and that they are all stuck open.

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Post by Yellowghost Sat Mar 05, 2016 8:01 pm

So .got my board back yesterday. David was awesome enough to vlean it up a bit. Still blows fuses. But I did more tests and found out its the magnets turning on at startup and blowing the fuse( nothing blows when I disconnect the individual harness to each magnet) Can't understand that page of the schematic too well. But Eric says it could be a transistor locked on so I need to recheck those. Apparently there are transistors on the supercharger board as well for the magnets too so I need to recheck those too?

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