Re: STTNG resetting when double tapping both flippers in game.....

by **paulohotline** Sat Mar 23, 2013 7:21 pm

Hey guys I ran voltage tests on the board from TP1 - TP8 and they are coming up good. All the bridge rectifiers were replaced on Dec 2010 (see photo), so they are not the problem here. When I touch the connector on pins 10&11 on J121 (where the burn spot is) after shutting of the PIN, it burns my finger to the touch! Do these PINS have to be replaced? Why does it get so hot after 10 minutes? I cannot play the machine with the connector sizzling like that!
https://i.servimg.com/u/f75/17/79/34/56/driver10.jpg
https://i.servimg.com/u/f75/17/79/34/56/j121-110.jpg
https://i.servimg.com/u/f75/17/79/34/56/cpu_bo10.jpg

My voltage results for STTNG:
TP1 - spec 12v - test 13.4v
TP2 - spec 5v - test 5v
TP3 - spec 12v - test 12v
TP5 - ground
TP6 - spec 50v - test 69.7v
TP7 - spec 20v - test 20.5v
TP8 - spec 18v - test 14v - 17v

by **paulohotline** Sun Mar 24, 2013 11:15 am

Going through this wiki guide on WPC resets:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

Excellent guide! When I get the replacement parts I am going to pull out the board and replace the burned out PINs and put in some new connectors etc. Hopefully that will will get rid of this issue.

by **OnTilt** Sun Mar 24, 2013 11:29 am

As far as the new connectors and pins go, I may have what you need if you don't want to wait for your parts order.

by **paulohotline** Sun Mar 24, 2013 11:33 am

Thanks for the offer dude. But I want to get the capacitors in as well since I cannot verify how old they are on this board. I am ok with waiting until I have all the parts to make sure we get er done in one shot.

by **Bay78** Sun Mar 24, 2013 12:41 pm

Well I have all the parts and don't mind waiting for you to replace them if your in a hurry let me know I can help you out.

by **paulohotline** Sun Mar 24, 2013 1:06 pm

Thanks Dave, appreciate it. I do love playing the STTNG, so much fun! Once you go MegaPin its tough to go back to a regular one. Should of picked up that JD when it was for sale last week Smile

Perhaps when install the LEDS next week it will help keep things cooler. Either way, we shall see.

by **paulohotline** Fri Mar 29, 2013 2:52 pm

Hey David, this is starting to happen more often in multi balls etc when things start to get hectic. Sometimes the ball find gets a ball going, other times I have to shut it down. The left VUK keeps kicking, but nothing happens. Is this an opto board issue?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eq_S1ZizTys

by **paulohotline** Sat Mar 30, 2013 10:52 pm

Hey now, I ran switch tests and could not find an opto not working. Its pretty hard to see what opto the paper I stuck in the tunnel is triggering since they are so close together. I cleaned 5 transmitters that I could access, and 2 receiver optos on the left VUKs. They were pretty clean to begin with so I do not believe that "dirty optos" is the issue. I checked and reseated all connecitons on the 16 Opto board and I think the problem is coming from there. I could not find any broken transistors but the LM339 chips on this board (in my research) do fail causing all kinds of craziness with the optos. I am thinking of replacing it outright with a GLM 16 Opto board from here -> http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/. Thoughts?

https://i.servimg.com/u/f75/17/79/34/56/opto_t10.jpg
https://i.servimg.com/u/f75/17/79/34/56/16_opt10.jpg
https://i.servimg.com/u/f75/17/79/34/56/glm_1610.jpg

by **paulohotline** Sat Mar 30, 2013 11:12 pm

FYI, another confirmation that one of the left VUK optos or 16 opto board is failing is it keeps detecting a phantom ball. In the ball remove option on STTNG, after all 6 balls are kicked out by test, this still happens every time...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-YOfWQWgjU

by **Bay78** Sat Mar 30, 2013 11:17 pm

Best way is to take off the under playfield ramp and check all the optos in switch test. Find out which one is bad or flaky and replace that and if it still doesn't work then start thinking about board repairs. Never start with the worst, always start with the easiest thing first Smile

by **paulohotline** Sun Mar 31, 2013 8:32 am

Hey Dave, I figured it out. The opto issue is Intermittent! When I tested both left VUKS yesterday they detected in the switch test but the issue started happening 5-10 minutes after I started playing and kicked all the balls out. This morning, same thing, I kicked all the balls out no issues, lifted up the playfield and tested the VUKs, all worked in the switch test. After approx 10 minutes of playing, I kick all the balls out again and the VUK constant kicking issue starts happening, I lift up the PF and the bottom left VUK fails on the switch test! It must be a flakey Opto switch above the VUK. Its one of the transmitters I cleaned so it could also be the receiver. Either way, I could find no broken wires leading up to the opto board, so I guess the next move would be to replace the opto transmitter and receiver and test from there. Do you have a new opto set on you? I am going to have to have to order a couple of sets to keep on hand. Dang it!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GRay9qf0ocM

by **paulohotline** Sun Mar 31, 2013 1:46 pm

Hey now, I pulled out the left VUK, checked all wires for continuity up to the connector and cleaned and checked all opto transmiters and receivers on this vuk of which there are 4. I found the impacted transmitter to be loose on the first opto and resoldered the connection and reflowed on the rest of the wires. I also reflowed on the receiver just in case. It seemed to have fixed the issue!
Case closed on this one!

https://i.servimg.com/u/f75/17/79/34/56/cleani10.jpg
https://i.servimg.com/u/f75/17/79/34/56/transm10.jpg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqmOg0E_zzk&list=UUxkSwxn5NpYfcitGw7AMWrg&index=1

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