STTNG resetting when double tapping both flippers in game.....

[paulohotline]

Hey now, I have been having this issue all day with the STTNG. When I double tap the flippers in during game it will reboot every time. Both flippers apon inspection appear to be in relatively good shape. Dudes on Pinside gave me this advice:

"Usually it is a voltage issue check your 5 volts and the connectors especially the Z connectors if your 5 volts drops to low you will get reset problems."

"Yeah, resets are a common problem on WPC games.- WPC games tend to have burned-out connector issues. Look for burned-out connectors (I think J-101 and a couple others, and probably the Z-connector on this particular variation of the hardware), replace them, enjoy the game!"

So do I need to unseat and reseat every connector in the PIN?

Paulo

[Malibu-ss]

reseat the 2 connectors on the right side of the driver board

[paulohotline]

Ok dude, the connector 121 located on the left side of the Driver board is damaged. All the other connectors have been checked and are fine. The male pins on the board appear to be fine, only the connector is hosed.

https://i.servimg.com/u/f75/17/79/34/56/j121_c10.jpg
https://i.servimg.com/u/f75/17/79/34/56/j12110.jpg

Is the fix to replace the connector?

[paulohotline]

I reseated the J101 and J102 on the right side of the board including the ground. No damage there.

I pulled out the 2 wires impacted by the burn out on J121 and sanded the wire clean. I also used fine sandpaper to clean the 2 male connectors on the board. Pulled er back in and the PIN is working now!

Hopefully she holds until I can master the Picard Maneuver!

[Malibu-ss]

the burnt wires may have something to do with GI lights?

[paulohotline]

Yeap, they sure do, although the GIs are working fine. I think reseating the J101 - J102 fixed the issue. Damn 20 year old dinosaur!

[paulohotline]

This seems to be a common error with the STTNG on J121:

http://www.aaarpinball.com/STTNG/STTNG.htm

[Malibu-ss]

it is a common problem on many WPC games........LEDS fixes that problem,with way less draw

[paulohotline]

Damn, I checked all the fuses with the MM and they appear good. A photo of the board Dave sent showed that burn mark, so it must of happened a long time ago. The 106 fuse was good so reseating the other connectors fixed the reboot issue. (knock on wood)

I have the STTNG LED kit coming in, should take a week or so.

Here is my topper picked up on KJ for 20 bucks!
https://i.servimg.com/u/f75/17/79/34/56/sttng_14.jpg

[Malibu-ss]

cool topper!

[Bay78]

re-seat J101 its coming from the transformer in the lower cabinet. It has Blue and red wires on it and is 7 pins. That will be a good quick temp fix but eventually you will need to have the header pins changed and the connector replaced. You will also maybe need a couple of Bridge rectifiers changed and a couple of capacitors changed. Always start with that J101 though first.

[paulohotline]

Hey Dave, it's starting to reset again on the double taps. I will not be able to install the Color DMD until I get this board fixed. If I am going to pull out the board I may as well replace all 5 Bridge Rectifiers and Filter Capacitors on the board. Just doing the 12 volt unregulated supply and replacing BR 5 and C 30 will help with the DMD power draw but not the resetting. This dude Sam on pinside has a good video on the process. This is beyond my soldering skillset. Is this something you can help me with if I bring over the board? As well, were can I order the parts from?

https://www.youtube.com/embed/15eCu-Kfibg?autoplay=1&rel=0

[Bay78]

Hmmmm well changing all the bridges and caps won't hurt the machine, it is most likely not needed. I would just change the 2 with the heat sink on them. And changing the caps in that area wouldn't hurt either. My experience has been that more then likely the other caps and bridges will be fine. Also in some rare instances it could be the voltage regulator as well. I'm having a reset issue on my Addams family that I haven't gotten around to looking at yet. But I changed the common J101 header pins and the connector and it's still resetting (not often but it does). I'm sure I can give you a hand and the parts can be ordered from Great plains electronics.

[paulohotline]

Dave, what about going this route, replace the entire board with the new spiffy puppy from Pinball medic and avoid future bullcrap?

Williams System WPC(89) & WPC-S Power Supply and Solenoid Driver board
http://www.pinballmedic.net/pinball_system_boards.html#WPC89_S_PS

https://i.servimg.com/u/f75/17/79/34/56/wdb08910.jpg

Replaces: Williams Pinball Board Numbers:
A-12697-1, A-12697-2, A-12697-3 & A-12697-4
Pinball Medic's Part Number WPC89SPS
Price $250

Features:
Test points have been added for all voltages generated on this board
WPC & WPC-S Solenoid Driver and Power Supply board features in-rush current limiting, soft start power supplies and high current capacity MOSFET solenoid coil driver transistors.

Note: The old original board is a major cause of game resets due to connector, voltage regulator obsolesce and capacitor age. Shipping will be $9 up to two boards shipped to the same address. Shipping on more then two boards will depend on the number of boards ordered

[Bay78]

Well thats up to you. Your original board can be fixed. But if you would rather just shell out the $250 it will fix your issue for sure. If you do go that route I would be interested in buying your old board off you to fix it up for a spare if you want.

[paulohotline]

I can just envision a bunch of other issues popping up down the road with this old board. Pins having to be replaced, voltage regulator causing wonky issues. I will think about it. I need to get an idea of how much it will cost for parts + repair of this old board.

Does this new board replace another board in the STTNG beside the driver board?

[Bay78]

No it only replaces the driver board. Parts wise your probly looking around $20 - $35 to fix the old one or less.

[paulohotline]

Pinball medic does not carry these boards anymore for $250. They are available here for $299. Just seach for "A-12697-1"

http://arcadeshop.com/parts.htm#Pinball%20Parts

[Bay78]

They are rottendog replacement driver boards. They are available at various places for $299

[paulohotline]

Anyone in Canada selling them?

[Bay78]

not that I know of.

[paulohotline]

Hey Dave, if you want to come by today or tomorrow and show me how to do some tests on voltages on the STTNG and see if any are out of spec that would be great.I definately need to get those pins on the board and connector replaced on J121. I am now leaning towards repairing the board after doing some research on those replacement boards.

Come over, play some Sopranos / CSI as well. Let me know dude.

[OnTilt]

Let me know how that goes. I could use a repair on J120 and J121 but have been too chicken shit to do it. Got the parts just don't trust my repair skills.

[paulohotline]

Pinball life has the parts, placing order today:

Bridge Rectifier - 35amp 600volt - KBPC3506W
Capacitor - 15,000uf 35v - pbl_5040-12313-00

[paulohotline]

Great Plains site info for parts:

Product ID: GBPC3504W
Bridge Rectifier, 400 Volt, 35 Amp, Wire Leads
Manufacturer: Diodes Inc.
Body Thickness = 0.30" typical
Note -- Diodes Inc is now the only manufacturer of bridge rectifiers that I
use. These epoxy encapsulated bridges have extra-low thermal heat transfer
resistance and low forward voltage drop, extra smooth heatsink mounting
surface and non-tarnishing legs. They are the most efficient and cool
operating bridge rectifiers that I can find and will run cooler than any
brand of bridge rectifier including the full metal body bridges.
Price: $2.75

Product ID: CER-15000uF-25V
Capacitor, Radial Electroltyic, 15000uF, 25V
Capacitor, 15000uF, 25V, 85C, Radial Electrolytic
Manufacturer: Nichicon
Manufacturer Part Number: UVR1E153MRD
Diameter: 22mm, Height: 40mm, Lead Spacing: 10mm
RoHS Compliant
Typical capacitor for Williams WPC's.
Price: $3.75

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